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“Ms. Jin, this is our newly trial-produced tea. Please taste it and let us know where we can improve further?” Yesterday, at the Jin Shouzhen Senior Agronomist Expert Workstation within the Suichang Digital Tea Industry Entrepreneurship Park, tea farmers and company representatives formed an early queue.

Jin Shouzhen measured out 3 grams of the sample, steeped it in boiling water, let it sit for five minutes, and then carefully tasted it. “The liquor is sour, indicating over-fermentation; astringency means under-fermentation,” she noted. While scoring the tea, she provided detailed feedback on its appearance, liquor color, aroma, taste, and infused leaves. “Our on-site guidance aims to help everyone pinpoint the issues and apply the right remedies.”

Scenes like this have recurred in various forms across Suichang County’s tea gardens and processing workshops for the past 53 years.

From reclaiming land for terraced tea gardens to imparting Longjing tea processing skills, from promoting green pest control to establishing digital tea gardens, the scientific and technological assistance from the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences Tea Research Institute has continued unabated for over half a century.

“Simple Instruments” on Barren Hills:

Launching the Terraced Tea Revolution

In 1972, Wang Li, a 37-year-old researcher from the Tea Research Institute, first arrived at Huang’ang Village in Suichang’s Dazhe Town. The sight gripped his heart—barren hills stretched as far as the eye could see, characterized by “high peaks, steep slopes, and not a single level patch of land”, aside from a few mountain paddy fields, scattered bamboo groves, and vegetable plots.

As New China’s first post-graduate in tea science, Wang Li had visited all major tea-producing areas in the city. Yet, amidst this poverty, he saw potential. “The soil here is fertile and fine, with almost no gravel visible. The altitude and climate are highly suitable for tea cultivation. It’s a shame not to grow tea here with such excellent conditions!” He resolved silently to help the villagers “carve out a livelihood” from these barren mountains.

However, reclaiming the mountains for tea was no easy task. Elder tea farmer Yin Laiyue recalled the difficulties with a tone of helplessness: “We tried terracing ourselves, but no one understood the technique. The ridges we built were too narrow, couldn’t hold water, and cracked under the sun. The seedlings we painstakingly planted either died of drought or were washed away by rain—a whole year's labor wasted.”

It was amidst this dire situation, with nowhere else to turn, that the news—“tea experts have come from the provincial capital!”—reignited hope among the villagers of Huang’ang.

Answering the villagers’ expectations, Wang Li, along with experts like Chen Binghuan, Yang Suosen, Lu Wenming, and Yao Dugong, and local cadres including Huang Suzhen, Xu Fangyue, Xu Wenyi, and Fu Daiming, plunged into the barren hills of Huang’ang.

Surveying became the first major challenge. Lacking advanced equipment, Wang Li had villagers cut bamboo to construct an isosceles triangle frame. A thin string was tied at the apex, with a small stone attached as a plumb bob, creating a simple, makeshift level.

“When the plumb line is equidistant from the two sides of the triangle, it means the plane is level,” recalled 90-year-old Xu Wenyi, vividly remembering Wang Li leading them to measure the mountain slopes section by section using this simple tool. Everyone gathered around the experts, vying to swing hoes, eager to learn the techniques, even discussing reclamation skills during breaks.

Furthermore, Wang Li taught the villagers to build ridges “lower on the inside, higher on the outside” and designed “bamboo-node drains” along the inner side of the terraced gardens— “so rainwater flows along the ditch without washing away the ridges or topsoil.”

What moved the villagers most was the unwavering commitment of these experts from the city, who asked for nothing in return. At that time, there were no subsidies for bringing technology to the countryside. Wang Li and his colleagues lived in the village, carrying hoes up the mountain at dawn and sorting data by kerosene lamp after dark, consistently upholding the principle of “science and technology for the people”.

By 1974, through the concerted efforts of experts, local cadres, and villagers, over 280 acres of barren hills were finally clad in green, with ‘Longjing 43’ tea seedlings taking root. In 1976, Lishui City organized over 30 tea cadres to study here, and the terraced tea garden model rapidly spread.

Wang Li recalled with pride: “That model terraced tea garden was arguably first-class in the nation at the time!”

Mastering the “Iron Palm” in Tea Processing:

Selling “Gold Leaves” for Forty Times the Price

The terraced gardens gave Suichang good tea seedlings, but a new problem emerged—the processing technique in Dazhe Town was rough, resulting in messy appearance and a bitter taste. Even with good harvests, the tea couldn't command a good price.

“Back then, Longjing tea from Hangzhou could sell for over one hundred yuan per jin (500 grams), but ours was hard to sell even at 2 yuan per jin. The gap was huge!” Yin Laiyue recalled.

Wang Li saw this and felt anxious. In 1987, facilitated by the Tea Research Institute and Wang Li, the Huang’ang Tea Farm of Dazhe Commune invited two tea processing masters from Hangzhou’s Meijiawu, Chen Yi and Chen Zhong. Upon arrival, the masters converted a dilapidated village committee building into a temporary tea shed. During the spring tea season, they processed tea from 7 AM until 10 PM, working non-stop for 35 days.

“Stir-frying Longjing requires pressing your palm against the wok. When the temperature is high, your hands get covered in blisters. Initially, few villagers were willing to learn,” Chen Yi remembered. To persuade them, he constantly held up the finished Longjing tea, saying, “This tea can sell for over a hundred yuan per jin. Learning this skill means mastering a way to earn big money!”

The masters first demonstrated techniques like shaking, touching, and pressing, then watched as each villator practiced, correcting them immediately if the heat control was wrong. The value of the technique quickly became apparent: the purchase price for Yin Laiyue’s tea, after trial processing, soared from less than 2 yuan per jin to 80 yuan per jin—a fortyfold increase. By the third year, forty or fifty woks were operating simultaneously in the village. “The scene was steaming with activity, even livelier than New Year!”

In 1991, Yin Laiyue earned over 60,000 yuan from his contracted 200-plus acres of tea fields. He became one of the first in the village to build a multi-story house and buy a color TV. “Back then, all the villagers envied me. More and more people followed suit to learn tea processing. The ‘gold leaves’ had finally made their way out of the deep mountains!”

Equipping Tea Gardens with a “Smart Mind”:

Technology Makes Good Tea Stand Out

The foundation laid by Wang Li and others marked the beginning of a lasting bond between the Tea Research Institute and Suichang. The baton of scientific assistance has been steadily passed down through generations of experts.

In the new era, the focus of support shifted towards green ecology and digital intelligence. Yuan Haibo is one such “successor” in this relay.

In 2013, Yuan Haibo, a researcher from the Tea Research Institute, arrived in Caiyuan Township as a special technology commissioner. Upon visiting the tea gardens, he immediately identified problems: “At that time, most tea farmers relied heavily on weather conditions, and processing was relatively extensive, lacking standards.”

From then on, every spring tea season, Yuan Haibo would station in Caiyuan Township for at least 10 days. He led tea farmers in installing insect-killing lamps and colored sticky boards in the gardens, introduced new projects, provided hands-on guidance for factory design, equipment selection, and process flow, and organized technical training. “A technology commissioner shouldn't just solve immediate problems; we must help cultivate a local, permanent technical team.”

Over 13 years, the tea garden area in Caiyuan Township increased from 4,400 mu to 5,400 mu. The price of fresh tea leaves rose from 40-50 yuan per jin to 70-80 yuan per jin, with tea farmers' income increasing by 1.5 times.

More experts came to Suichang. In 2017, the Suichang County Tea Technology Extension Station Academician Expert Workstation was established. The team led by Academician Chen Zongmao introduced “black tech”, making tea gardens smarter. Narrow-wave wind-suction insecticidal lamps, natural enemy-friendly trap boards, and pheromone traps reduced over-reliance on pesticides. Monorail transport vehicles, drone spraying, and intelligent production lines addressed labor shortages and standardization challenges in mountainous areas.

“Before, processing tea relied entirely on manual labor. We could only hand-process 20 jin a day at most, and mistakes were common. Now, with the intelligent production line, we can process 500 jin a day with exceptionally stable quality,” said Hua Xinchí, head of the Suichang tea enterprise.

In 2021, Suichang jointly established the “Jin Shouzhen Expert Workstation” with the Tea Research Institute, conducting quality tracking, safety testing, and technical training. Today, the average amino acid content in Suichang green tea exceeds 5.0%, on par with the international standard for Anji Bai Cha; the average tea polyphenol content reaches over 49%, far exceeding the national standard of 34%.

Jin Shouzhen explained: “Higher amino acids make the tea taste fresher and more brisk; higher polyphenols make the flavor more robust. The advantages of Suichang tea are becoming increasingly evident!”

Harnessing the “Triple Tea” Approach for Common Prosperity:

The Scent of Tea Paves the Road to Revitalization

By 2024, Suichang’s total tea garden area reached 139,200 mu. The primary industry output value of tea was 1.528 billion yuan, with the whole industry chain value reaching 2.574 billion yuan. It was listed as one of “Zhejiang Province's 30 Key Green Tea Producing Counties”.

The vibrant tea industry in Suichang has long transcended primary production. With the help of experts, it has embarked on a new path of integrated development encompassing “tea culture, tea industry, and tea technology”.

Driven by the integration of industry, academia, and research, Suichang’s tea varieties have become increasingly diverse. “Previously, we only produced green tea. Now, through the ‘Stabilize Green, Advance Red’ quality improvement plan, we have developed several high-quality black teas and white teas,” introduced a relevant person in charge of the Agriculture and Rural Affairs Bureau of Suichang County. Among them, the “Xia Hong” brand black tea has repeatedly received the “Five-Star Famous Tea Quality Standard” evaluation from the China Tea Science Society. “Last year, sales of this black tea exceeded 7,000 jin, with many customers being repeat buyers.”

The growing talent pool has also injected vitality into the tea industry. Currently, Suichang has nurtured 928 tea processing entities, trained 324 senior tea industry workers, awarded the title “Suichang Tea Master” to 11 individuals, and “Suichang Tea Technician” to 151 individuals. “I was just an ordinary tea farmer. After learning processing techniques from the experts for five years, I've now become a ‘Tea Technician’ and can even teach classes for young people in the village!” said tea farmer Bao Xiahong.

Digital transformation has become a driving force for the sustainable development of the tea industry. An investment of 174 million yuan built the Suichang Digital Tea Industry Entrepreneurship Park, which has attracted 21 enterprises and achieved an output value of 100 million yuan in 2024.

The aroma of tea has also attracted tourists. Suichang has created intangible cultural heritage tea spaces and premium tea tourism routes, becoming a new highlight of rural tourism. In 2024, the Dazhe ‘Ten-Thousand-Mu Tea Sea’ in Suichang received over 50,000 tourists. “Visitors can not only pick and taste tea but also experience tea art. Last year, our homestay revenue doubled compared to the previous year!” said the person in charge of LeLing·Ten-Thousand-Mu Tea Sea with a smile.

The most renowned Suichang Longgu Tea has won over 50 gold awards in domestic and international famous tea competitions. In recent years, it has successively obtained National Agricultural Product Geographical Indication registration protection, been recognized as a National Famous, Special, and New Agricultural Product, and listed among Zhejiang Province’s second batch of famous and excellent “Local Specialties”. Its brand value was assessed at 1.917 billion yuan in 2025.

Jiang Yongwen, Secretary of the Party Committee of the Tea Research Institute, stated that while Suichang’s tea industry development has achieved remarkable results, it still faces challenges such as rising labor costs, intense homogenized competition, a need to improve deep processing and diversification levels, and insufficient market share and brand premium capacity. “In the future, we will carry out whole-industry-chain cooperation with Suichang, from planting and processing to marketing and brand building, to further enhance the quality and expand the market for Suichang tea, enabling more tea farmers to increase their income and prosper.”

To commemorate the assistance from the Tea Research Institute experts, Suichang built a “Tea Research Institute Pavilion” atop the Ten-Thousand-Mu Tea Garden. This silent pavilion shelters the “gold leaves” within the gardens, ensuring their perennial verdure. It also stands as a testament to the half-century-long friendship between Suichang and the Tea Research Institute, firmly rooted in the mountains, continuously enduring.